Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 2024

It has been said that the best route on a mountain is a difficult one. Most climbers would find Trapeze on Aonach Dubh quite challenging enough in summer, but in 'Swinging High' James Milton describes the first winter ascent of the route: 'That's the hardest thing I've done,' says his partner. Far away and long ago, a youthful Mitch Millar loses his innocence on the pitiless slabs of the Eiger's Nordwand, climbing solo after his companions turn back, while also in the 'Swinging Sixties' but nearer home Mike Watson and his companions pioneer Steeple - now a classic E2 climb - on the Shelter Stone Crag. In a gentler vein, in 'Far from Nowhere' Stephen Reid gives us a beautifully illustrated and enthralling account of a hillwalk: 'On such a winter's day' one might be forgiven for wondering why anyone would wish to wander anywhere other than the Galloway hills.' With no less enthusiasm Kenny Brookman recounts his odyssey around the high points of our Scottish islands - all 54 'Ronas' as he calls them; Simon Richardson introduces Catherine Destivelle to the delights of Ben Nevis; and Bob Reid and Ken Crocket appraise their favourite VS rock climbs. As always, new climbs in summer and winter are recorded, numbering over 800 in this issue, and in 'Munro Matters' we celebrate completed rounds of Munros, Tops, Corbetts, Grahams and Donalds. Regular features include a summary of the winter climbing season by Neil Adams and 16 authoritative reviews of recent books including the biography of Raeburn.