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A brilliant memoir from writer William Finnegan about his life as a surfer: from living in Hawaii as a boy, to travelling the Pacific islands in the 70s, to San Francisco and New York. This book can be thoroughly enjoyed even if you don't know the first thing about surfing (speaking from experience). Savannah
Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. New Yorker writer William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii.
Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.